Niño Bién
Humberto 1º, 1462 - Constitución - Buenos Aires
Tel.: (+54-11) 4147-8687
Milonga Thursdays from 10.30 pm to 4.30 am.
Tango lessons: Thursdays 9.30 pm to 10.30 pm.
Ticket $5. Snacks and drinks.
If you want to go back in time in Buenos Aires, to an era when tango truly ruled the city, few places will do but El Niño Bién. In the main dance hall, you'll be struck at first by the subtle Belle Epoque beauty of the space, complete with men and women in black tangoing, their styles observed respectfully by the rest of the patrons in the tables to the side, who often come to observe the techniques of other experts.
Next you'll notice the thick smoke hanging in the air, cut by ceiling fans whirling overhead. Don't look too closely at anyone, though, unless you know what you're doing: This is one place where the concept of milonga eyes -- staring across a room to draw a man and a woman together onto the dance floor -- is forcefully maintained.
While there are numerous tango locations all over the city, this is one where you almost expect the crooner Gardel to suddenly appear and entertain you, calling you to the dance floor.
They do serve food here, but it's only so-so, so don't bother unless you're famished. Unfortunately, Niño Bién is becoming a victim of its own success, with many tour groups beginning to come here now.
If you're looking to find a tango teacher, one will probably find you as many come here seeking students for private lessons.
